Introduction
The textile industry in China, often hailed as the beating heart of the nation’s economic empire, relies heavily on a workforce that endures gruelling conditions. Chinese legislation stipulates that the maximum number of hours a labourer can work in a week is 56. This industry is extremely important in China as it involves working up to 75 hours a week, thereby raising significant concerns about the condition of the labourers and compliance with Chinese labour laws, which are being violated.
Behind the scenes of this booming industry, countless workers operate sewing machines under intense pressure to meet production demands. A BBC article indicates that many of these workers are subjected to excessively long hours without adequate compensation or rest, violating established labour regulations. The relentless pace of production not only affects their physical well-being but also their mental health, leading to a cycle of exploitation that is difficult to escape. They revealed that many workers were subjected to excessive overtime, with a basic wage of CNY2,400 ($327) that falls significantly short of the CNY6,389 deemed necessary for a ‘living wage’ by the Asia Floor Wage Alliance. Despite this disparity, the monthly earnings of some workers ranged from CNY 4,000-10,000 (~$545-$1,365), suggesting that while overtime may boost income, it highlights the ongoing exploitation and inadequate compensation within the industry.
The SHEIN Case
In a factory linked with SHEIN in southern China’s Guangzhou, a worker has said there are no holidays/days off for them; most say they only get a single day of rest per month. Between January and September 2023, auditors of the Chinese-owned global retail company SHEIN – Sustainability and Social Impact Report of 2023 – had two cases of child labour in its supply chain. Due to SHEIN’s close ties with Beijing Senator Marco Rubio (currently awaiting confirmation as President-elect Donald Trump’s Secretary of State and expected to secure confirmation easily), wrote to the Commissioner Gary Gensler, Securities and Exchanges Commission, in November 2023, “… urging him to require enhanced disclosures from SHEIN as a condition of approving its IPO, and to block the IPO, if necessary, to protect U.S. investors.”
Despite the overworked workers at SHEIN, the situation does not seem to have changed at either the company or China’s textile industry as a whole. 75 hours of work per week and extremely low wages (having undergone minimal change from 2021 to 2023) is still standard practice.
Conclusion
China’s textile industry is plagued by severe forced labour and labour law violations. Forced labour transfers have intensified, often exceeding state quotas, while workers endure long hours and minimal pay. Beijing prioritises production output over addressing these critical labour issues, demonstrating a systemic disregard for worker rights and welfare in favour of economic gains.
The controversy surrounding the treatment of workers in the textile sector has intensified, particularly with allegations of forced labour emerging from various regions. Human rights organisations have documented instances where individuals are coerced into working under the threat of punishment or economic deprivation. These practices have drawn international scrutiny, leading to calls for greater accountability and transparency within the industry.
The implications of these labour practices extend beyond China’s borders. As global consumers become increasingly aware of the ethical concerns tied to their purchases, brands sourcing textiles from China face mounting pressure to ensure that their supply chains are free from exploitation and forced labour. This scrutiny has prompted some companies to reassess their sourcing strategies and implement stricter monitoring measures.
Addressing these issues requires concerted efforts from both the Chinese Government as well as international stakeholders. Strengthening labour laws, enforcing compliance and promoting fair wages are essential steps toward improving conditions for workers in the textile industry. Furthermore, fostering open dialogue between manufacturers and labour rights advocates can help bridge the gap between economic growth and ethical labour practices.
On 14 January 2025, the United States’ Forced Labor Enforcement Task Force (FLETF) via the Department of Homeland Security (DHS), added 26 new entities in the cotton sector to the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA) Entity List, including one of the world’s largest textile manufacturers. The UFLPA Entity List is linked to forced labour practices in China’s Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region (XUAR). The DHS website states that this list protects US consumers and businesses from tainted goods, referring to goods that have been produced while violating labour laws. From 15 January 2025 onwards, US Customs and Border Protection (CBP) will prevent any goods produced by any of the entities on the UFLPA list from entering the US.
Following in the footsteps of the US in this regard is not a feasible option for numerous countries, for a variety of reasons and motivations. Simultaneously, it is also crucial to consider the impact of such actions at both a national as well as well international level. In this age of globalisation and interconnected supply chains, it would be an uphill task to adjust supply chains of and in China: adjusting Chinese supply chains by reducing their efficiency through preventative measures and adjusting foreign-owned supply chains in China by moving them outside China’s borders.
Featured image: SHEIN workers sewing clothes, Guangzhou 2023. | publiceye.ch
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